Tweet
estan llegando esta semana al finnnnn
a ver si coin esto se despierta mas el turbito de abajo
aca les dejo un poco de info que resulta interesante
Here's a set of 280 camshafts, both intake and exhaust. These cams are ground with the same profile as the HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams but they're actually slightly more aggressive than the HKS's. As mentioned in the subtitle, these are re-manufactured from OEM 4G63T cores. So, as I said, this is not cheap Chinese crap. These are brand new grinds and have not been installed in any vehicle. This doesn't mean that they haven't been tested though. We installed a set of these in our own 1991 2.3L stroker Talon TSI and they are incredible. The car was built for SCCA type road racing and we have approximately 3000 track miles with these cams. The car is also a street car, so YES these cams are great for street use. The car continues to idle smoothly, with a hint of exhaust burble that's representative of the increased aggressiveness. We have run these cams with both a small 16G turbo and a larger GT3076R. In both cases spool up time is notably faster. With the smaller turbo spool up begins at approximately 2800RPM's, and continues to build power all the way to the top of the RPM range (long after the stock cams would have fallen off). The larger turbo begins to spool at approximately 3400RPM's. I couldn't be happier with the results myself, and I'll continue to use these cams in my own car. Why pay $600 for HKS or Crower cams? Why buy Brian Crower cams that dont provide you with any cam statistics at all? With my cams you can have the same quality HKS profile made from quality cores and I'll provide you with a detailed specification sheet outlining lobe lift, center line, duration, valve lift, etc.
Take a look at my feedback if you like, it is pretty representative of what kind of eBayer you're dealing with. I wouldn't sell these cams if I didn't believe in them.
I've already sold two of these sets of cams on ebay and the buyers were more than happy. Please take a look at auction #160047247433 , #160051849278 , and #160065215381 as reference's. Also, you can see the positive comments they left in my feedback. The buyers were cherrykids (1140) , 94vxhatch (11) , and petbre (74).
Specifications:
INTAKE CAM
Duration @ .050" lobe lift
Crank Degree = 202.8
Net Lift = .402"
EXHAUST CAM
Duration @ .050" lobe lift
Crank Degree = 203.4
Net Lift = .381"
I know that sometimes regrinds have a bad ******tion, but it all depends on what type of cams they are and how they 're made. The stereotype about regrinds typically comes from problems with welded cores, and even more so problems with wiper or lifter type cams. These are not those kind of cams, these are roller follower type cams, and they have not been welded on. To further set your mind at rest they've been induction hardened on all lobe surfaces where contact is made. Also, to ensure that the correct lash adjuster to roller follower geometry is established, shims are included, and are to be placed under each hydraulic lash adjuster.
I'm trying to sell these cams regularly now in 264, 272, and 280 durations. Currently I have sets of 272's and 280's in stock. Please, feel free to send me a message letting me know what you need. Also, if you have spare sets of stock cores sitting around I'd be willing to offer a discount in exchange for them, of I would be willing to buy them outright. Please contact me to discuss it.
Here are some questions and answers from past auctions.
Incidentally, springs and retainers for Non-turbo models are the same as those used in turbo cars. Non-turbo and turbo cams were only very marginally different. One could expect the same type of performance gains (increased power, responsiveness, etc) in either vehicle. That doesn't mean, of course, that the ratio would be the same. I'm currently using these cams with my stock springs and haven't had any problems. Typically, the reason people upgrade the springs is to combat what is referred to as valve float. This occurs at higher RPM's when under-sprung cams are rotating so fast that the valves literally do not have the spring compression to rebound quick enough. This results in the valves floating off of the lobe, which can negatively impact airflow through the motor. I know that some companies, such as Crower, offer upgraded spring/retainer kits but even these are only about 5-10% stiffer than stock springs. If you're not planning on turning your car into a 10,000 RPM race car, you really don't have anything to worry about. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for the interest.
a ver si coin esto se despierta mas el turbito de abajo
aca les dejo un poco de info que resulta interesante
Here's a set of 280 camshafts, both intake and exhaust. These cams are ground with the same profile as the HKS 280 intake and exhaust cams but they're actually slightly more aggressive than the HKS's. As mentioned in the subtitle, these are re-manufactured from OEM 4G63T cores. So, as I said, this is not cheap Chinese crap. These are brand new grinds and have not been installed in any vehicle. This doesn't mean that they haven't been tested though. We installed a set of these in our own 1991 2.3L stroker Talon TSI and they are incredible. The car was built for SCCA type road racing and we have approximately 3000 track miles with these cams. The car is also a street car, so YES these cams are great for street use. The car continues to idle smoothly, with a hint of exhaust burble that's representative of the increased aggressiveness. We have run these cams with both a small 16G turbo and a larger GT3076R. In both cases spool up time is notably faster. With the smaller turbo spool up begins at approximately 2800RPM's, and continues to build power all the way to the top of the RPM range (long after the stock cams would have fallen off). The larger turbo begins to spool at approximately 3400RPM's. I couldn't be happier with the results myself, and I'll continue to use these cams in my own car. Why pay $600 for HKS or Crower cams? Why buy Brian Crower cams that dont provide you with any cam statistics at all? With my cams you can have the same quality HKS profile made from quality cores and I'll provide you with a detailed specification sheet outlining lobe lift, center line, duration, valve lift, etc.
Take a look at my feedback if you like, it is pretty representative of what kind of eBayer you're dealing with. I wouldn't sell these cams if I didn't believe in them.
I've already sold two of these sets of cams on ebay and the buyers were more than happy. Please take a look at auction #160047247433 , #160051849278 , and #160065215381 as reference's. Also, you can see the positive comments they left in my feedback. The buyers were cherrykids (1140) , 94vxhatch (11) , and petbre (74).
Specifications:
INTAKE CAM
Duration @ .050" lobe lift
Crank Degree = 202.8
Net Lift = .402"
EXHAUST CAM
Duration @ .050" lobe lift
Crank Degree = 203.4
Net Lift = .381"
I know that sometimes regrinds have a bad ******tion, but it all depends on what type of cams they are and how they 're made. The stereotype about regrinds typically comes from problems with welded cores, and even more so problems with wiper or lifter type cams. These are not those kind of cams, these are roller follower type cams, and they have not been welded on. To further set your mind at rest they've been induction hardened on all lobe surfaces where contact is made. Also, to ensure that the correct lash adjuster to roller follower geometry is established, shims are included, and are to be placed under each hydraulic lash adjuster.
I'm trying to sell these cams regularly now in 264, 272, and 280 durations. Currently I have sets of 272's and 280's in stock. Please, feel free to send me a message letting me know what you need. Also, if you have spare sets of stock cores sitting around I'd be willing to offer a discount in exchange for them, of I would be willing to buy them outright. Please contact me to discuss it.
Here are some questions and answers from past auctions.
Incidentally, springs and retainers for Non-turbo models are the same as those used in turbo cars. Non-turbo and turbo cams were only very marginally different. One could expect the same type of performance gains (increased power, responsiveness, etc) in either vehicle. That doesn't mean, of course, that the ratio would be the same. I'm currently using these cams with my stock springs and haven't had any problems. Typically, the reason people upgrade the springs is to combat what is referred to as valve float. This occurs at higher RPM's when under-sprung cams are rotating so fast that the valves literally do not have the spring compression to rebound quick enough. This results in the valves floating off of the lobe, which can negatively impact airflow through the motor. I know that some companies, such as Crower, offer upgraded spring/retainer kits but even these are only about 5-10% stiffer than stock springs. If you're not planning on turning your car into a 10,000 RPM race car, you really don't have anything to worry about. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for the interest.
Comment