Hablemos de "Nitro"

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Negro en un auto de calle llevar 2 mangueras hasta atrás es un caos déjame con los 12v.

No creas, las ruteas bien por el piso, del lado de adentro si fuera un casco, por el lado de afuera sin tocar nada para no perder calor y listo
hay cosas mas dificiles de hacer

[Lean_TS]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Negro, para rascarte la espalda rascas la pared y despues te apoyas en la misma?

Por que no hacen los asientos calefaccionados con agua tambien? Claro, las correderas, se soluciona sencillamente tambien...

Es impractico, cuando tengas oportunidad de poner un equipo de nitro, calefaccionalo asi y te vas a dar cuenta. Una experiencia vale mas que mil consejos.

[speed]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

todo eso, puede resultar en un Mas o menos , pero es mas barato y mas serio que andar con 20 metros de cable buscando un enchufe de 220 V o calentarlo con la resistencia del encendedor del auto.....[/QUOTE]

serio era tener localizados todos los enchufes de buenos aires y conurbano previamente a ir a algun lugar, por la dudas...jaja
se puede hacer lo que vos decis pero lo veo un poco complejo, que se yo, nunca lo vi..

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Negro, para rascarte la espalda rascas la pared y despues te apoyas en la misma?

Por que no hacen los asientos calefaccionados con agua tambien? Claro, las correderas, se soluciona sencillamente tambien...

Es impractico, cuando tengas oportunidad de poner un equipo de nitro, calefaccionalo asi y te vas a dar cuenta. Una experiencia vale mas que mil consejos.

Quizas por que trabajo siempre con caños y mangueras y me es habitual ver caños y mangueras ruteadas por todos lados
En mi 125 " casquedado " le meti el radiador en donde va el asiento trasero hacia el baul , no me costo mas que una tarde llevar las mangueras e invertir los soportes y la instalacion del electro para que chupe el aire desde el habitaculo hacia el espacio del baul en el que este descargaba el aire caliente por su parte trasera abierta

de hecho, tenia 22 años cuando lo hice y creo era un poco mas boludo que ahora
saludos !

PD: Soy zurdo, quizas es por que estoy al reves del Mundo.....o por lo menos de la mayoria de el

[Se-R]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Zurdito de mierda apoyas a maduro puto te vas a morir

ah no? Sorry jajaja

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Negro, para rascarte la espalda rascas la pared y despues te apoyas en la misma?

Por que no hacen los asientos calefaccionados con agua tambien? Claro, las correderas, se soluciona sencillamente tambien...

Es impractico, cuando tengas oportunidad de poner un equipo de nitro, calefaccionalo asi y te vas a dar cuenta. Una experiencia vale mas que mil consejos.

lo he visto, cuando era mucho mas comun ver autos con gas en el Galvez, aparte, yo NO lo invente !!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Zurdito de mierda apoyas a maduro puto te vas a morir

ah no? Sorry jajaja

No



jajaja

[Lean_TS]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Quizas por que trabajo siempre con caños y mangueras y me es habitual ver caños y mangueras ruteadas por todos lados
En mi 125 " casquedado " le meti el radiador en donde va el asiento trasero hacia el baul , no me costo mas que una tarde llevar las mangueras e invertir los soportes y la instalacion del electro para que chupe el aire desde el habitaculo hacia el espacio del baul en el que este descargaba el aire caliente por su parte trasera abierta

de hecho, tenia 22 años cuando lo hice y creo era un poco mas boludo que ahora
saludos !

PD: Soy zurdo, quizas es por que estoy al reves del Mundo.....o por lo menos de la mayoria de el

Conocia uno que trabajaba en una fabrica de consoladores y por costumbre no te cuento como termino

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Kiss that Torch Good Bye with Nitrous Bottle Heaters!


Get those bottles up to pressure the safe way...by John Heard and friends, Last Updated Jan 3, 2015

Friends don't let friends torch bottles!

To get peak performance from your nitrous system it's a well known fact that nitrous bottle pressure plays an important role. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and have less than desired results. Too much bottle pressure and you may be getting into a lean tune up, unable to activate the nitrous solenoids, or in a worst case situation run into safety issues with the bottle itself. Most nitrous companies recommend a nitrous bottle pressure around 900-950 PSI, and many racers run upwards of 1000 PSI depending on the volume they are using and other factors . The tricky part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressureand maintaining it there for during the run. Ideally you want to avoid your nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.

-30	167
-20	203
-10	240
0	283
10	335
20	387
32	460
40	520
50	590
60	675
70	760
80	865
97	1070
109	1150
WARNING! EXPOSURE TO TEMPERATURES IN EXCESS OF 130° F MAY CAUSE AN EXPLOSIVE FAILURE
Get a Large Version of this Chart

Take a minute and study the Pressure Vs. Temperature chart on the right side of the page. As you can see if you're going to be racing in 60 or 70 degree weather you're going to be way low on bottle pressure. If you're racing in the heat of the summer, you'll need to be cooling the bottle down to get it to the recommended manufacturer's pressures.

“Critical pressure” is the minimum pressure required to liquefy a gas up to its “critical temperature.” Our research has found that above 97.7F (1069 psi) , nitrous oxide does not remain liquid. The world of science accepts the fact that: “The critical temperature is defined as that temperature above which a gas can no longer remain liquid, regardless of the pressure applied.”
Ricky Dyer of O2-Technology

Ricky also states that above 102°F Nitrous is 100% gas. This has a big effect on your tune up as the difference between gaseous and liquid nitrous affects how much you're putting in your engine! On the low pressure side, you want to stay above 760 psi to maintain Nitrous as a liquid, lower than that and it starts to turn into a gas again.
It's easy to cool a bottle down, just soak a towel in your cooler and lay it on the bottle and it will bring the temperature down quickly. Heating up the bottle is a bit more controversial subject, let's take a look at the methods people use to heat up their bottles...
Heating Bottles with a Propane Torch

Even though heating bottles with a propane torch is a popular method among some racers, it's dangerous and can get people hurt.
Aluminum starts to melt around 800 degrees and applying that much heat for too long in any one spot can weaken the bottle causing it to rupture. Think!!! We're talking about an aluminum (which melts easily) nitrous bottle filled with an oxidizer at high pressures and applying a torch (filled with fuel) to it - not a wise idea. Don't even consider using a torch on a carbon fiber bottle.
There are more reasons, besides the obvious safety issues, to not use a torch to heat your bottles. Many tracks have outlawed this practice and some sanctioning bodies such as IHRA, AMA/Pro-Star have as outlawed it as well. Finally, those telltale scorch marks on a bottle may also prevent you from getting the bottle refilled at many locations, and you'll likely have a problem selling the bottle in that condition as well!
Wrap Around Electric Nitrous Bottle Heaters

One of the most common ways to heat a bottle is to use a wrap around style electric bottle heater. Most of these heaters are powered by the cars 12 volt power system. The good systems utilize either a thermostat or pressure switch to turn the heater on and off. A heater without a pressure switch or thermostat can be a safety risk because the pressure will keep climbing to unsafe levels if the heater isn't turned off at a safe level. Even with a thermostatically or pressure switch controlled heater, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the bottle pressure during the heating process.
Even a 400 watt heater can take quite a while to bring a bottle up to racing temperatures in cool weather. If you're racing on a cool day, say 64 °F (700 PSI) and want to bring your bottle up to say 88 °F (900 PSI), you're looking at right around 18-20 minutes minimum to get it there. With this short amount of heating time, the bottle isn't going to be evenly heated either, we'll talk about that further in this article.

Applied Racing Components
AC/DC Nitrous Bottle Heater

The other drawback to most nitrous bottle heaters is they run on 12 volt DC current and draw a lot of amps which can run your battery down quickly when trying to heat a cold bottle. The folks at Applied Racing Components have a great solution for that problem with their combo 12 volt DC / 110 volt AC Nitrous Bottle heater.
This $175* combination model is hot because you can get your bottle fully up to temperature by just plugging it into your generator without draining your battery. If you have to sit in the staging lanes for an extended time you can also use the 12 volt heater to keep the bottle at pressure. Getting the bottle up to temperature is the hard part, keeping it there is far easier for the heater to do. Most DC bottle heaters are rated around 240 watts, while not as fast as a 110 volt model, they will do an adequate job of heating a bottle in warmer weather.
Our experience with small pressure switches to control these heaters hasn't been that great. The small switches have to much hysteresis and just can not maintain a very close temperature range. We just manually cycle the heater on and off while using the in car pressure gauge. We do not leave these bottle heaters on while not being attended!
Many Nitrous racers use these style of heaters in conjunction with a Water Bath Heater. The Electric heater is primarily used to bump up pressure in the staging lanes if they have to sit for long, especially in cold weather.Peltier Junction Nitrous Bottle Heater & Coolers



A new bottle heater has come into favor among racers here in the last few years is called the Nitrousaurus-X by Carnivore Performance Products. It's the as first fully enclosed nitrous temp control system for use inside the car. The 11lb Nitrousaurus-X provides both heating and cooling functions and, according to Carnivore, will maintain the exact temperature that you want within one degree F! Carnivore advertises that the unit includes a built-in overheat thermostat protection with automatic system shutdown.
Carnivore also claims that the unit will operate on both 12VDC or 16VDC charging systems and only draws 4 - 5 amps while heating or cooling. That's a huge difference from regular bottle heaters that draw as much as 20 amps or more! Once the set temperature is reached, the unit will only draw .06 DC amps. This makes it very attractive for keep the bottle at set pressures even while the car is in the staging lanes without running down the battery.
The company hasn't documented the recovery time of the bottle temp after use but they do indicate that the unit can restore the temp to the current setting "easily between rounds". The biggest drawback to the product that we can see at this time is that it's only offered in a 10lb version.
Chemical Heaters for Nitrous Bottles

One of the newest ideas that have came out lately is these little reusable chemical heater packs. These things are awesome if you need a temporary source of heat for maintaining bottle temp - notice we didn't say heating a bottle up, they're not really powerful enough to do that.


Say you've got your bottle nice and warmed up and are sitting in the lanes waiting to run and somebody oils the track down. That can easily take an hour of down time or more, and the whole time you're sitting there your bottle is cooling off. You can cover it with a blanket, which will delay it some, but it's still going to cool off.
With these handy dandy little pads, you poke the metal disc and a chemical reaction occurs which generates heat and brings the pack up to around 130 degrees. It lasts for about about 15 minutes or so in open air strapped to a bottle with a bungee cord, which isn't a lot but it's better than nothing, and is a heck of a lot easier than yanking the bottle out and taking it back to the pits to warm up when an oil down occurs. When you get back home, put them in boiling water and let them cool, and they are ready to go again! They are supposed to be good for thousands of cycles. We suggest experimenting with these some before you get to the track to see how well they hold temp and ways to secure them to the bottle.
These things are available many places online like Amazon.com as they are used in Spa's and Massage Therapy. Just do some searching for "Reusable Instant Heat Pad" "Heat Wave" is one brand name - you should find all kinds of sources. The 8x12 one shown in the picture was available for $25 at Amazon.com and ebay.com, we highly recommend getting the larger sizes vs the smaller 5x9 models.
Note: These things aren't a replacement for a bottle blanket heat wise, but they don't take power to operate!

Neal Performance Innovations Hot Water Bottle Heater

Nitrous Bottle Water Heaters

Almost all class racers use heated water tanks to keep bottles at the exact "Ready to Race" pressure so at least two bottles are ready to go when they get the call to the lanes. There are several different styles of 110 AC multi-bottle water heaters available from different sources, however the quality of the control systems will vary and that is very important to maintain tight bottle temperatures.
One of the best in the industry is the one made by Neal Performance Innovations which maintains the water temperature very tightly, which is quite important. Note there are some that look similar to the Neal Nitrous Bottle Heater, but may not be capable of holding as tight a temperature range, so do your research if you're looking to buy another brand. Neal's unit also is equipped with a sensor thermowell to protect the temperature sensor, something many others don't use. This prevents the sensor from water damage, just like most industrial applications.
The biggest advantage to the water tank style heaters is very uniform bottle heating and the ability to heat soak the entire contents of the bottle, they are a must-have for the serious nitrous Racer.
Safety First

WARNING - PRESSURE SWITCH CONTROLLED NITROUS BOTTLE HEATERSIf you use a heater with a pressure switch located on the bottle outlet (same line that goes to your engine), you must be aware that the pressure switch will not see the actual bottle pressure if the bottle valve is closed. This will cause the heater to not shut off at the appropriate pressure. It will just keep on building pressure till the safety disc in the bottle ruptures or the bottle explodes.
If you're bottle valve has a port on the bottle side of the valve, that's a much better location for the switch because it will be able to see the bottle pressure regardless of if the valve is open or not. It isn't as handy since you'll have to unhook the switch when removing the bottle but it is much safer if you forget and leave the heater on.

When heating a nitrous bottle always keep safety in mind. Nitrous bottles are normally equipped with a safety burst disc in the bottle valve to prevent over pressurization of the bottle, However it is possible that the disc may not open as planned which could lead to a bottle explosion. It's a real good idea not to fully rely on automatic thermostats or pressure switches to regulate your bottle pressure. When heating your bottle, manually monitor the nitrous pressure or the tank temperature and don't leave bottles heating unattended.
Fundamentals of Nitrous Bottle Heating

Heating up a bottle takes time, the chart below shows how long it takes to get a 15lb bottle heated up to 1200 PSI from 64 degrees. An important point is EVEN heating of the nitrous, you can get the pressure up to 1000 PSI fairly quickly with most heaters, but it will quickly fall when you remove the heating element because the entire nitrous volume is not yet at an even temperature. To do that, you need to heat soak the bottle for an extended period of time.
*Please note that this test was conducted with a good bottle heater that puts out 400watts BUT it used a thermostat to switch it on and off. That thermostat, due to hysteresis (the differential between when the thermostat opens and closes), increased the time to heat up the bottle because the blanket was not on constantly. I have not tested the same heater with a pressure switch style setup yet, but you should find that pressure switch controlled heaters are considerably faster than thermostatically controlled heaters because the element stays on until the pressure is reached. Unlike a thermostat style which cycles on and off as it heats. That said, because the bottle heats up quicker with a pressure switch control, you still have the issue of how long it takes to heat soak all the nitrous in the bottle.

In the chart above it took us only 15 some minutes to get the nitrous up to 1000 PSI (99°F), but at the bottom of the bottle it was 13 degrees cooler than at the top half of the bottle. This indicates that the bottle isn't fully heat soaked. Removing the heater at this point would cause the bottle temp to quickly drop. Bottle blankets do help to reduce this, but to keep your pressure up during the run it helps a lot to have the entire contents of the bottle heated evenly to your desired pressure.
To get the bottle close to fully heated at the top and the bottom using a blanket style heater you're talking about 2 hours at temperature. Note that in the above chart, once we got the bottle fully heated to a little over 100 degrees, it held temperature for about 1 hr after the heater was turned off in 63 degree air. That's why you see the Pro's using the multi-bottle heaters in the pits. They get their bottles fully up to racing temperature and can always cool them down quickly if necessary. Then they purge the bottle down to the pressure they have their tune up set for. Remember it's far easier to cool a bottle than to heat it up. Ideally your bottle pressure should just be a little above your launch pressure when you stage the car. Excessive purging to get the pressure down reduces the volume of nitrous in the bottle and will result in higher pressure drops during the run.

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Warm Water Bath




se puede caletar el agua con resistencias o usar agua caliente ya calentada por el motor, no ?
la diferencia es rutear cables de 6 mm de 12 V DC o llevar un caño de ida a 90 C ....y otro de vuelta hacia adelante...

???
No es tan descablellado lo mio, a pesar de que soy pelado

el tema es que aca solo piensan en motores chicos, dosis chicas y un tubo que te aguante todo un viernes , sabado y domingo....
y precisamente el 1/4 Argento solo evolucionara con motores como los de la Black Poison, que de hecho, todavia no anda gatillada...

[Lean_TS]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Esta muy linda la fotito, pero no veo eso instalado en un auto. Aparte el agua la calientan con la tension de la red
Es logico usar agua como metodo de transmision de temperatura, no solo por el coeficiente que tiene, si no porque permite una operacion rapida de un equipo estacionario.

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Esta muy linda la fotito, pero no veo eso instalado en un auto. .

Si seguis pensando " eso " instalado en un 128 podrido o en un 147 casqueado, te olvidas que los yanquis corren picadas con chatas grandes y le inyectan nitro a motores de 14 o hasta 15 litros de cilindrada



" si pensamos en chico, siempre seremos pobres "
y lentos.....

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Nitrous Oxide Cam Shafts
Choosing a Camshaft
Optimum cam timing for a nitrous motor will be different than optimum timing for that same motor off the bottle, so you will have to make a choice as to whether you want the most power with or without nitrous. Obviously if you are driving the car on the street most of the time, you will want the best power off the bottle. If you find that you can spare some power to make your car faster at the track, picking a camshaft to favor nitrous can make a substantial difference when nitrous is in use. If course it is a trade off, but usually the power that you make on the bottle, will be far greater than the amount lost off the bottle.
Pumping Losses
Nitrous oxide adds oxygen, much of which is in liquid form. So you can see that a large intake valve and port is not required or desirable. Larger intake ports cause more of the nitrous to turn to a gas and reduce the amount of normally aspirated power, if the nitrous takes up more room, there will be less room for air, reducing volumetric efficiency. Also, you do not want or need long intake duration or a very high lift, so the intake side of the cam does not need to be any different when nitrous is used. The exhaust is a totally different story. All that extra oxygen and fuel makes for a substantial increase in exhaust. How can the exhaust valves deal with this? It can't, pumping losses go out of sight. Much of the extra power made in the cylinders never makes it to the flywheel, because it is used to push out the exhaust. Since making the exhaust valve large enough and the port flow enough is impractical with most cylinder heads, we must take other actions to cut pumping losses (which is actually just a band aid fix).
Reducing Pumping Losses
The first obvious step is to use a dual pattern cam with longer exhaust duration. Opening the valve earlier will help by getting the valve open more and bleeding off some pressure before the piston starts moving up the bore. This does eat into the power stroke, but more power is freed up than would be made by holding it closed longer (the best solution would be a larger valve and better port). The blow down phase (overlap period) becomes very important in a nitrous engine, because the gasses has much greater velocity and can over scavenge, closing the valve exhaust valve a little earlier helps. Anytime you make more power by reducing pumping losses, you are freeing up horsepower that already existed in the cylinders. The engine will still experience the same loads, but more power will be put to the flywheel and less will be used to push out exhaust.
Camshaft Specs
As I said earlier, the intake needs to remain pretty much the same, but the exhaust needs more duration, an earlier opening point and an earlier closing point. To make this happen, you need to use a dual pattern cam with more exhaust timing, and a wider lobe separation angle. Cam's with 112-116° lobe separations are common is nitrous motors. To keep the intake timing the same, you must install the cam advanced, usually 6-8° advanced. The good things about this are that advancing a cam will bring more low-end (at a trade off of top-end) when running without the nitrous and the wider lobe center angle will also help idle and vacuum. Even the most radical nitrous profiles are usually pretty tame on the street. Ultra high lift cams are not need to make power with nitrous. On the exhaust side, the low lift flow is the most important thing, and must be dealt with much more seriously than high lift flo

[El Negro 2007]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Richard Holdener May 4, 2007 0 Comment(s) Share


2/16
By now we all know that nitrous oxide is a performance enthusiast's (and street racer's) best friend. There is nothing that wakes up a motor like a quick shot of nitrous oxide. Need to increase the power output of your motor by 50, 75, 100, or even 300 hp? There is nothing that combines the power potential, ease of installation, and bang for the buck like a well-designed nitrous oxide system. In less than an afternoon, you can transform your mild-mannered machine into a serious street/strip terror.
Even running a conservative amount of nitrous (like we did on our mild 350) can increase the power output by an easy 100 hp. That translates into a solid second off your quarter-mile time and a gain of nearly 10 mph, thereby transforming your 13.8-second stocker into an honest 12-second street slayer, all at the push of a button. While the power gains offered by nitrous are certainly impressive, there's even more power waiting to be unleashed with the proper cam timing. Just like forced induction applications, nitrous engines respond favorably to specific cam timing events. To illustrate the benefits offered by a dedicated nitrous cam, we devised a suitable comparison test.
3/16
Nitrous motors really respond well to dedicated cam timing.
Naturally, this would require a cam swap while on the dyno. To properly illustrate the power gains, we would have to run our test small-block with nitrous using the stock cam, and then again once we installed the nitrous cam. The flow (or hp shot) of nitrous would have to remain the same, as would things like oil, water, and air temperature, not to mention the air/fuel ratio, and timing. It is imperative that these variables be fixed so they don't affect the outcome of the test.
While performing the nitrous cam comparo, we could also demonstrate the power offered by the cam swap alone (without running nitrous), since the vast majority of the engine operation (especially on a daily driver) will be without nitrous. The question on the table was would the cam swap be beneficial to the normally aspirated combination, or would we have to run the juice to take full advantage of the additional power gains?
4/16
Zex supplied a complete plate nitrous system that allowed us to adjust the nitrous delivery from 100 hp to as high as 200 hp.
Since the vast majority of enthusiasts don't prowl the streets with dedicated nitrous motors, we decided it would be prudent to test the effectiveness of the nitrous cam on a real street powerplant. By "real street" we mean something that could be considered for use as a daily driver. And we don't mean a nasty combination that can be tolerated, but rather one that will yield a delicate balance of performance, mileage, and driveability (even in bumper-to-bumper traffic).
Our test mule certainly qualified as a daily driver, offering nearly 20 inches of vacuum thanks to the use of a production (200 hp) 350 hydraulic flat-tappet cam. A dead smooth idle is one of the qualities offered by a stock cam profile, though (as we would find out), the cam limited power production in the upper rpm range. In addition to the factory cam profile, the 350 small-block featured AFR 190 heads, an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake, and a Barry Grant Speed Demon carb. The static compression was less than 10.0:1, something that could easily run on pump gas thanks to the use of the aluminum heads. Additional mods included an MSD distributor, Hooker headers, and 1.6:1 ratio rockers.
5/16
Our 350 was equipped with AFR 190 heads, a Performer RPM Air Gap intake, and a Barry Grant 750 Mighty Demon carburetor. The long-block was first equipped with a factory Chevrolet (200-hp) hydraulic flat tappet cam.
The first order of business was to select a suitable cam profile and a matching nitrous system. For our cam needs, we turned to the Comp Cams catalog and went straight to the section labeled nitrous cams. Given the daily driver status of our test motor, we chose the smallest hydraulic flat-tappet nitrous cam listed for a small-block Chevy. The NX256H cam offered a 212/222 duration split at .050 (this compares to just under 200 degrees for the factory cam), a .434/.464 lift split (calculated with a 1.5 rocker), and a 113-degree lobe separation angle. With our 1.6 ratio rockers, the NX256H cam actually provided .463 lift on the intake and .495 on the exhaust. Naturally the stock cam benefited from the additional lift (and reduced friction) offered by the 1.6 ratio rockers.
For the nitrous, Zex supplied one of its adjustable plate nitrous systems that allowed us to dial-in the power gains by changing the jets. Once again, we continued with the conservative approach and installed jetting to increase the power output by 100 hp, though jetting was available to more than double that if our 350 could withstand the additional cylinder pressure.



Read more: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0705-nitrous-specific-cam-test/#ixzz3ShRKXvP9
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The Zex kit differed from most nitrous kits by way of this custom plate. Rather than the typical spray bars, the Zex plate featured individual machined orifices to inject the fuel and nitrous.
With our cam and nitrous at the ready, we installed the test engine on the dyno and dialed-in the combination with the stock cam. After tuning the 350 with jetting and timing, we were rewarded with peak power numbers of 343 hp and 397 lb-ft of torque. Even saddled by the stock cam, the 350 managed to produce over 350 lb-ft of torque from 2500 rpm to 5100 rpm.
Adding the nitrous to the stock cam resulted in a jump in peak power from 343 hp to 429 hp, a gain of 86. The nitrous improved the power output with the stock cam by as much as 110 hp (at 4100 rpm), but the gains fell off to 84 hp at 5300 rpm. Part of the drop in power (as engine speed increased) can be attributed to the 4-degree drop in timing that was recommended by Zex for the 100-hp nitrous shot. Retarding the timing by 4 degrees was done to minimize the chance of harmful detonation. The drop in timing would have more of an effect on the power at higher engine speeds. The torque gains were impressive, as the Zex system increased the torque production by 140 lb-ft, from 397 lb-ft to 537 lb-ft. Believe me, an instant gain of 140 lb-ft is anything but subtle.
3/16
Solenoids controlled the activation of the nitrous and additional fuel.
After running the nitrous with the stock cam, we set to work swapping in the new NX256H grind from Comp. Swapping the cam required removal of the intake and carb along with the rockers, pushrods, and lifters. Naturally, we took the liberty of replacing the used hydraulic lifters with the new set provided with the cam. The new lifters were pre-lubed in fresh Lucas 30W oil before assembly. The cam received a liberal dose of assembly lube, as did the entire valvetrain before reassembly.
One trick new product we employed during the cam swap was Comp's Valve Train Assembly Spray. This made lubricating the valvetrain a snap. After adjusting the valves (1/2 turn past 0 lash), we were ready for the 20-minute break-in procedure. After we were sure the cam and lifters were happy in their new home, we were safe to make full-throttle runs.
The new cam profile required only minor jetting (1 jet size), but the power difference was certainly impressive. Equipped with the NX256H cam, the 350 now produced 399 hp and 407 lb-ft of torque. You will remember that the motor produced just 343 hp (and 397 lb-ft) with the stock cam. Despite being designed specifically for nitrous use, the cam improved the power output of the normally aspirated motor by more than 50 hp. In fact, the largest gain was nearly 65 hp out at 5600 rpm.
4/16
Before performing the cam swap, we ran the 350 with the stock cam both normally aspirated and with the Zex nitrous kit (set to deliver 100 hp). Equipped with the stock cam, it produced 343 hp and 397 lb-ft of torque.
While wilder cam timing will usually yield big top-end gains, usually gains are accompanied by a trade-off in power down low. This particular cam swap was all but the exception to that rule, as the impressive top-end power cost little, if any down low. There was a slight drop at 2500 rpm, but the bigger cam kept pace with the stock cam from 2700 rpm all the way to 4300 rpm, where the NX cam just took off. Where the torque curve fell off rapidly with the stock cam, it continued strong for another 1000 rpm before starting its decline. The result of this shift in the torque curve was a sizable jump in power production.
We were quite pleased with the gains offered by the nitrous cam on the normally aspirated combination, as we could enjoy the extra power on a daily basis without having to suffer any loss in low-speed power. Now we wanted to see if the gains would continue once we engaged the nitrous. Using the same 100-hp jetting and 4-degree timing drop, we activated the nitrous with the NX256H cam. The results were impressive, as the peak power numbers jumped from 399 hp and 407 lb-ft of torque to an even 500 hp, and an amazing 567 lb-ft of torque.
The nitrous kit improved the peak power by 101 hp and peak torque by 160 lb-ft. The nitrous offered gains ranging from 133 hp at 4200 rpm to 100 hp at 5300 rpm. The power gains offered by the same 100-hp shot of nitrous were greater with the nitrous cam profile than the stock cam, indicating that cam timing does indeed play a part in an effective nitrous motor. The nitrous cam also works well without the nitrous and makes this type of cam swap a no-brainer.


Read more: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0705-nitrous-specific-cam-test/camshaft.html#ixzz3ShRQXmMb
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Richard Holdener May 4, 2007 0 Comment(s) Share


8/16
While testing the mild small-block 350, we compared the stock (200 hp) 350 hydraulic flat-tappet cam against the Nitrous HP NX256H with and without the nitrous. Replacing the mild factory cam with the NX256H resulted in a significant jump in power. The larger cam profile lost little, if any power down low, but showed significant power gains past 4300 rpm. The curve indicated that the engine would now pull strongly to 6000 rpm, where the power was falling off hard with the stock cam.
9/16
Before we performed the cam swap to the NX256H, we ran the Zex plate nitrous kit on the small-block equipped with the stock cam. Running the nitrous system on the 350 with both cams helped illustrate the power gains offered by the cam swap both normally aspirated, and with the nitrous. Running a 100-shot (46 nitrous jet and 43 fuel) through the Zex plate system resulted in a jump in peak power to 429 hp and 537 lb-ft of torque. The torque gains exceeded 100 lb-ft mostly because the nitrous was engaged low in the rpm range (3500 rpm). After replacing the stock cam with the NX256H, we once again installed the Zex plate nitrous kit, and ran the identical jetting and timing with the nitrous cam. The results were impressive. The nitrous system increased the power output of the 350 test motor from 399 hp to 500 hp, a gain of 101 hp. The torque gain was even more impressive, as the nitrous-equipped small-block thumped out 567 lb-ft of torque, a gain of 160 lb-ft.

Sources

Comp Cams
Memphis, TN 38118
800-999-0853
http://www.compcams.com
Zex
Memphis, TN 38118
888-817-1008
www.zex.com
Barry Grant
Dahlonega, GA 30533
706-864-8544
www.barrygrant.com




Read more: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0705-nitrous-specific-cam-test/small-block-results.html#ixzz3ShRWzage
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[Lean_TS]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

Si seguis pensando " eso " instalado en un 128 podrido o en un 147 casqueado, te olvidas que los yanquis corren picadas con chatas grandes y le inyectan nitro a motores de 14 o hasta 15 litros de cilindrada



" si pensamos en chico, siempre seremos pobres "
y lentos.....

Ese ejemplo, en que 18 millones de litros esta puesto? es algo ESTACIONARIO y el agua es como medio de transmision, la fuente de energia de calefaccion es electrica.

Es un problema de mentalidad creerse superior y mirar por arriba tratar de menospreciar algo comparandolo con lo "superior" que uno solo ve en las fotos o sueños humedos. Existe tambien la realidad, pero esta fuera de un foro.

[Diego1.8T]

Re: Hablemos de "Nitro"

los gringos no corren como 90% nitro y 10 meth ?, ojo asi abren los blocks de 8litros con turbo roots como si fueran latitas de gaseosa....