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que pocos entienden.. y para seba que pedia inspiracion, y como hace mucho que cierta persona no me deja postear sus cosas.. pongo algo que vi por ahi
Since then it has gone through these stages:
It has:
- DOHC 4G32 engine with twin 40mm webers
- 5 speed
- 4.2 LSD
- Honda NSX front rotors with commodore calipers
- Sigma rear rotors with skline calipers
- Nissan Patrol master cylinder and braided brake lines on all flexible lines (all solid lines replaced)
- Coil over style scorpion front struts with adjustable konis and kmac alloy strut tops
- Reset rear leave with extra 1.5 leaves and bilstein shocks
- 6 point bolt in cage with intrusion bars
- Sparco sprint seats
The engine bay currently looks like this:
Interior like this
Here are some pics of the internals of a "rebuilt" engine that was running for less then half an hour in total:
Bearings:
Piston, they all look similar, but this one has a bit missing from the bottom of the skirt, you can feel the lip with your fingernail
Rods, once again they all look similar (I'm sure this is not good) the sides look like someone has had a go at cleaning them up. Also, two of them are discoloured near the rod bolts
Crank, all look the same:
Head, it all appears to be ok, the circled part is the oil squirter for the cam that was in the sump...
It uses a standard 4G32 block with an adapter plate for the timing gear, and domed/flycut pistons. the only other difference is the two piece baffled sump.
Que te quede claro seba...
From what I can tell, someone has tried to clean up the combustion chambers and stuffed up a couple of cylinders leaving some messy looking area's around the spark plugs. There is also a section on #4 cylinder that looks like it has been cracked or something weird happened to it. Some of the valves also have a lot of pitting on them which doesn't look nice.
Engine is rebuilt and back in the car (thanks to TK for advice and pulley repair)
*40mm webers have been replaced with 45mm's
*Nitrous is now part of the plan and has been partially installed
*Fuel system is totally changed to meet the nitrous setup and a fuel cell is now in the boot between the nitrous bottle and battery box
*Water based heater has been removed, will be replaced with electric demisters
*Inlet manifold has been replaced (design based on aluminium plates cut by gravitykills with cad drawings by Belly_up)
Couple of pics:
Here is the latest engine bay pic I have, it doesn't have the nitrous lines or inlet manifold in it and most of the wiring is exposed so I can change it for the nitrous and new fan controller
The bottle brackets open up so it's not to hard to get it out. If it becomes a problem, I will put some hinges in the middle of the brackets to make it bend easier.
Here are a few updated pics, ignore the messy engine bay, it needs a clean up when I finish the wiring changes:
Next step is to sort out the rest of the wiring, mount the guages, fix the stuffed gearbox mount and get it off to the tuner/extractor maker.
nt towards the radiator and finish off the radiator mounts (ran out of bolts
)
Just to keep James happy, here are two crappy pics:
Had a rather nasty sounding suspension knock that ended up being the passenger strut not being done up properly, rather frustrating as it had been checked by a suspension place and not picked up.
This is the main bearing, note the two sections of thread, you can't get anything on to the lower section...
Main plate on the bearing holder, note the extra useless thread:
Top view of the strut, the slighter different colour of the inner ring is the bearing holder:
<
algo raro que se cruzo en circuito de su mismo color y llantas parecidas jajaja
Just a bit of camber...
about 4.5 on the drivers side an 5 on the passenger side going from rough measurements.
>Aca la cago... feo
So a minor change occured when I upgraded the S13 SR20 to a S14 SR20 with Microtech LTX8 ecu, Microtech dash and quad coil setup courtesy of SLO78U's dead Corona. Had a spare couple of hours tonight and did a quick trial fit:
It took a couple of straps to be able to hold the engine in the correct angle without the gearbox helping to keep it all still.
Clearance between the brake booster/master cylinder is tight, but workable unlike the S13 setup. I will cut the booster pipe so it is straight and that should do it.
Looks like there will be enough room for the S13 clutch master cylinder as well. Was planning on a smaller RX7 cylinder, but if I can use the one I already have it will make life easier.
Of course everything can't be perfect... This is the height I set the engine at, just above the crossmember so it is not the lowest point of the car:
It's later, so here are the pics:
After some manhandling, removal of the clutch cable, drag link and sway bar, it's "in"
Note the amount of offset to the passenger side of the bay.
Even with that offset, it only just clears the brake booster and master cylinder
No chance of moving it any further back without modifying the firewall
Note the engine-gearbox braces on the sump, they are where the steering should be
Gear shifter is lining up behind the old hole, exactly where the battery cutoff and nitrous switches are so they will all need to be moved.
Note the manifold is not sitting in place at the back:
Plenum is higher the the stock manifold, so with some remote reserviors, the manifold should clear the master cylinder without any issues. Heaps more space underneath the manifold for access to the engine mount, starter, oil filter and alternator as a bonus.
Clearance is not so good at the brake booster, the manifold is resting against the pipe. Hopefully the booster can be rotated to move the pipe and moved up against the firewall.
Hopefully the extra height of the plenum will also give clearance for a traditional firewall mounted clutch master cylinder.
Got the 9inch grinder out tonight and hacked up the sump:
I got caught out by the angle of the sump and nicked a tiny hole in the back of the sump. Shouldn't be too hard to fix if I can't get another sump to hack up.
Put the sump back on with a couple of bolts and put it back in the car, it's on more of an angle then last time, I think this is close to what is needed:
crank is close to the center of the car, just a bit to the passenger side
The brake booster is still in the way of getting it any further towards the drivers side.
Heaps of clearance for the brake master cylinder:
Heaps of clearance for the steering as well:
It's tight for the gearbox, it won't go up as far as needed until the hole is cut for the gear lever.
Not a lot of clearance for the exhaust, but I should be able to squeeze something in there.
Firstly cut out the floor as the spare wheel well was in the way. As a bonus, it gave a heap more room for seeing what was going on and doing other work.
This is the part of the car that was causing the most concern. The rail dipps down towards the front of the car rather quickly, the upper arm of the IRS (marked with the liquid paper) setup wants to occupy this space so it had to go.
Marking for the height and wheel centre line for initial locating, chassis points will be used for the final location.
Out with the live axle, leaf spring setup.
Now to get this in place.. the rhs bolted to the diff pinion is to hold it at the correct height when under the car. That way the shell can be lowered in to place without having to worry about supporting the cradle.
Cradle sitting roughly in place showing more rhs holding up the back of the cradle. The shell was hitting in several places at this point and they were marked for cutting once the cradle was moved out of the way.
In the middle of this pic you can see the rubber stopper for the diff nose on the original setup, it had to be removed to allow the new diff to sit in place. as the cradle going over the diff was too tall.
Lots of missing chassis rail. It will need to be duplicated further towards the middle of the car.
Now that the cradle was roughly in place, it was time to test fit a wheel, might need to fit those bigger flares.
Dummy fitted a cross brace behind the cradle, mounts will be made to line up with the cradle area where the rubber mounts are usually fitted. These have been removed and a plate will be welded across the top for the chassis brackets to be bolted to.
The front mounts will be similar, brackets welded to the chassis rails and plates welded across the old rubber mount sections
After the cage was in, we got stuck in to the front mounts for the rear cradle. The front of the cradle was cut off and new mounts made to use the front bolts of the leaf springs. Then new chassis rails were put in from the new rear cross bar to the front suspension mounts. Still need to do a bit of work with shock mounts, bracing and cleaning up, but it is in place.
Attached Thumbnails 
Got some bits today, also a comparison pic of an SR20VE and SR20DE timing chain.
Attached Thumbnails
In the pics of the quads on the engine, you may have noticed that they were held in place with some bungy cords. As they were made for a H22A Honda engine, they didn't bolt straight on but the ports are very close in size so a suitable adapter plate to match up the two was required. I sent off the quads and stock manifold to Billzilla and he sent me back this:
Bloody awesome work and it fits exactly like it should. It still needs a bt of work on port matching and correct bolts/studs, but it does mean that the quads are bolted on to the engine now.
The only fitment issue I have noticed so far can be seen in the pic below, underneath the masking tape is a coolant passage that has a 10cm or so piece sitcking out that no longer fits. I'll have to get something fabbed up to route the coolant and mount the temperature sensor on. Not a big issue, just something to add to the to-do list.
Me voy a comprar un fiat uno.
Since then it has gone through these stages:
It has:
- DOHC 4G32 engine with twin 40mm webers
- 5 speed
- 4.2 LSD
- Honda NSX front rotors with commodore calipers
- Sigma rear rotors with skline calipers
- Nissan Patrol master cylinder and braided brake lines on all flexible lines (all solid lines replaced)
- Coil over style scorpion front struts with adjustable konis and kmac alloy strut tops
- Reset rear leave with extra 1.5 leaves and bilstein shocks
- 6 point bolt in cage with intrusion bars
- Sparco sprint seats
The engine bay currently looks like this:
Interior like this
Here are some pics of the internals of a "rebuilt" engine that was running for less then half an hour in total:
Bearings:
Piston, they all look similar, but this one has a bit missing from the bottom of the skirt, you can feel the lip with your fingernail
Rods, once again they all look similar (I'm sure this is not good) the sides look like someone has had a go at cleaning them up. Also, two of them are discoloured near the rod bolts
Crank, all look the same:
Head, it all appears to be ok, the circled part is the oil squirter for the cam that was in the sump...
It uses a standard 4G32 block with an adapter plate for the timing gear, and domed/flycut pistons. the only other difference is the two piece baffled sump.
Que te quede claro seba...
From what I can tell, someone has tried to clean up the combustion chambers and stuffed up a couple of cylinders leaving some messy looking area's around the spark plugs. There is also a section on #4 cylinder that looks like it has been cracked or something weird happened to it. Some of the valves also have a lot of pitting on them which doesn't look nice.
Engine is rebuilt and back in the car (thanks to TK for advice and pulley repair)
*40mm webers have been replaced with 45mm's
*Nitrous is now part of the plan and has been partially installed
*Fuel system is totally changed to meet the nitrous setup and a fuel cell is now in the boot between the nitrous bottle and battery box
*Water based heater has been removed, will be replaced with electric demisters
*Inlet manifold has been replaced (design based on aluminium plates cut by gravitykills with cad drawings by Belly_up)
Couple of pics:
Here is the latest engine bay pic I have, it doesn't have the nitrous lines or inlet manifold in it and most of the wiring is exposed so I can change it for the nitrous and new fan controller
The bottle brackets open up so it's not to hard to get it out. If it becomes a problem, I will put some hinges in the middle of the brackets to make it bend easier.
Here are a few updated pics, ignore the messy engine bay, it needs a clean up when I finish the wiring changes:
Next step is to sort out the rest of the wiring, mount the guages, fix the stuffed gearbox mount and get it off to the tuner/extractor maker.
nt towards the radiator and finish off the radiator mounts (ran out of bolts
)Just to keep James happy, here are two crappy pics:
Had a rather nasty sounding suspension knock that ended up being the passenger strut not being done up properly, rather frustrating as it had been checked by a suspension place and not picked up.
This is the main bearing, note the two sections of thread, you can't get anything on to the lower section...
Main plate on the bearing holder, note the extra useless thread:
Top view of the strut, the slighter different colour of the inner ring is the bearing holder:
<
algo raro que se cruzo en circuito de su mismo color y llantas parecidas jajaja
Just a bit of camber...
about 4.5 on the drivers side an 5 on the passenger side going from rough measurements.
>Aca la cago... feo
So a minor change occured when I upgraded the S13 SR20 to a S14 SR20 with Microtech LTX8 ecu, Microtech dash and quad coil setup courtesy of SLO78U's dead Corona. Had a spare couple of hours tonight and did a quick trial fit:
It took a couple of straps to be able to hold the engine in the correct angle without the gearbox helping to keep it all still.
Clearance between the brake booster/master cylinder is tight, but workable unlike the S13 setup. I will cut the booster pipe so it is straight and that should do it.
Looks like there will be enough room for the S13 clutch master cylinder as well. Was planning on a smaller RX7 cylinder, but if I can use the one I already have it will make life easier.
Of course everything can't be perfect... This is the height I set the engine at, just above the crossmember so it is not the lowest point of the car:
It's later, so here are the pics:
After some manhandling, removal of the clutch cable, drag link and sway bar, it's "in"
Note the amount of offset to the passenger side of the bay.
Even with that offset, it only just clears the brake booster and master cylinder
No chance of moving it any further back without modifying the firewall
Note the engine-gearbox braces on the sump, they are where the steering should be
Gear shifter is lining up behind the old hole, exactly where the battery cutoff and nitrous switches are so they will all need to be moved.
Note the manifold is not sitting in place at the back:
Plenum is higher the the stock manifold, so with some remote reserviors, the manifold should clear the master cylinder without any issues. Heaps more space underneath the manifold for access to the engine mount, starter, oil filter and alternator as a bonus.
Clearance is not so good at the brake booster, the manifold is resting against the pipe. Hopefully the booster can be rotated to move the pipe and moved up against the firewall.
Hopefully the extra height of the plenum will also give clearance for a traditional firewall mounted clutch master cylinder.
Got the 9inch grinder out tonight and hacked up the sump:
I got caught out by the angle of the sump and nicked a tiny hole in the back of the sump. Shouldn't be too hard to fix if I can't get another sump to hack up.
Put the sump back on with a couple of bolts and put it back in the car, it's on more of an angle then last time, I think this is close to what is needed:
crank is close to the center of the car, just a bit to the passenger side
The brake booster is still in the way of getting it any further towards the drivers side.
Heaps of clearance for the brake master cylinder:
Heaps of clearance for the steering as well:
It's tight for the gearbox, it won't go up as far as needed until the hole is cut for the gear lever.
Not a lot of clearance for the exhaust, but I should be able to squeeze something in there.
Firstly cut out the floor as the spare wheel well was in the way. As a bonus, it gave a heap more room for seeing what was going on and doing other work.
This is the part of the car that was causing the most concern. The rail dipps down towards the front of the car rather quickly, the upper arm of the IRS (marked with the liquid paper) setup wants to occupy this space so it had to go.
Marking for the height and wheel centre line for initial locating, chassis points will be used for the final location.
Out with the live axle, leaf spring setup.
Now to get this in place.. the rhs bolted to the diff pinion is to hold it at the correct height when under the car. That way the shell can be lowered in to place without having to worry about supporting the cradle.
Cradle sitting roughly in place showing more rhs holding up the back of the cradle. The shell was hitting in several places at this point and they were marked for cutting once the cradle was moved out of the way.
In the middle of this pic you can see the rubber stopper for the diff nose on the original setup, it had to be removed to allow the new diff to sit in place. as the cradle going over the diff was too tall.
Lots of missing chassis rail. It will need to be duplicated further towards the middle of the car.
Now that the cradle was roughly in place, it was time to test fit a wheel, might need to fit those bigger flares.
Dummy fitted a cross brace behind the cradle, mounts will be made to line up with the cradle area where the rubber mounts are usually fitted. These have been removed and a plate will be welded across the top for the chassis brackets to be bolted to.
The front mounts will be similar, brackets welded to the chassis rails and plates welded across the old rubber mount sections
After the cage was in, we got stuck in to the front mounts for the rear cradle. The front of the cradle was cut off and new mounts made to use the front bolts of the leaf springs. Then new chassis rails were put in from the new rear cross bar to the front suspension mounts. Still need to do a bit of work with shock mounts, bracing and cleaning up, but it is in place.
Attached Thumbnails Got some bits today, also a comparison pic of an SR20VE and SR20DE timing chain.
Attached Thumbnails
Bloody awesome work and it fits exactly like it should. It still needs a bt of work on port matching and correct bolts/studs, but it does mean that the quads are bolted on to the engine now.
The only fitment issue I have noticed so far can be seen in the pic below, underneath the masking tape is a coolant passage that has a 10cm or so piece sitcking out that no longer fits. I'll have to get something fabbed up to route the coolant and mount the temperature sensor on. Not a big issue, just something to add to the to-do list.
Me voy a comprar un fiat uno.
Tira pista para los ignorantes jaja
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