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Este es un post que encontre mientras buscaba info para colocar la crossflow,
me parecio muy interesante y bueno se los dejo
no necesitan saber taaanto ingles porque las fotos dicen todo.
Conversion block 2.0L 8V ABA a 2.0L 20V
John's ABA 20V conversion
March 02, 2002
2.0 Conversion Phase 1: teardown and compare
First, a little background:
I bought an "ABA" 2.0 short block out of a 94 VW Golf for $320 shipped. Going price seems to be between $300-$600. This is a popular motor swap for the VW guys, so it may be hard to find a motor as cheap as I did.
Here are the main reasons I chose this motor:
1. It's a tall deck block, 16.5mm longer than a regular 1.8 or 2.0 This allows longer rods, 159mm vs. 144mm
2. Impulse wheel - the crank trigger wheel required in order to use the stock ECU (most aftermarket Engine Management Systems require a crank trigger anyways)
3. Forged crank and oil squirters - All ABA blocks built from 93 to 95 have forged cranks and oil squirters. 96 and up have cast cranks and no oil squirters - or so I've been told. I think this means 94-96 Golfs and Jettas are the ones to get the motors from. There are other 2.0 forged cranks available, but they dont have an impulse wheel. I don't know if it's possible to machine a crank to fit an impulse wheel.
If you're not running a stock Motronic system, or are planning on an aftermarket system with a crank trigger wheel on the crank pulley, then this isn't a big deal.
4. It supposedly hadn't been done :)
I did run into a couple snags, which I'll get to later, first here are the pics of the VW ABA motor being disassembled:
As received:
Side shot:
Identifying label:
Guts removed:
Close-up of oil squirters:
Engine side:
Engine front:
92.8mm crank, notice the crank trigger wheel:
Rod and piston:
Some test fitting/comparison pics:
2.0 Windage tray:
The 1.8T windage tray:
CC'ing the 2.0 piston dish:
Testing to make sure the APR flywheel fits:
Comparing the windage trays and oil pumps (1.8T on the right):
I tore apart the 1.8T block and did some comparisons.
My block is a 1997 Audi A4 block, There are rumors that the 97 blocks are stronger than the newer ones, but who knows if that's true.
This was a surprise, the 1.8T crank is CAST, not forged like I originally thought.
The top crank is 92.8mm (2.0), the bottom is 86.4 (1.8) If you look closely, you can see the thin casting line on the 1.8, compared to the thick forge line for the 2.0
Side view of the cranks
The auxilliary shafts, 1.8T on the left, 2.0 on the right, drives the oil pump for both motors, and the distributor for the 2.0 I will be using the 1.8 shaft (no distributor).
If you will be running a distributor, you may have to have teh 2.0 aux shaft modified to fit the 1.8T pulley.
Notice the pulley and shaft gear size differences.
Different views of the 2.0 (left) vs 1.8 (right) pistons and rods.
Comparison of the fronts, 2.0 right, 1.8 left. Notice the height difference that allows the long rod to be used.
Rear view, 2.0 left, 1.8 right:
Side view #1, 2.0 right, 1.8 left:
Side view #2, 2.0 left, 1.8 right. It's hard to see, but the turbo coolant return is there on the 1.8 You can also note that the 1.8 doesn't have any freeze plugs. Wierd.
For the most part, all of the accesory mounting holes are there.
I noted two exceptions:
1. The mount for the turbo brace is gone, not a big deal, since there looks to be an extra boss available (down lower) that could be used.
2. The mounts for the pass side engine mount bracket is different. Luckily, the bracket has holes for both configurations.
Here's another snag, the distributor hole is bigger on the 2.0 This means the plug from the 1.8 will not fit. You will need an adapter from Techtonics Tuning.
All the tranny bolt holes appear to line up as well.
So far, so good, right? Well, there are a couple snags:
Snag #1:
The 20V head has 5 oil drain-back holes on the exhaust side of the head. The 2.0 block only has 2.
20V head, notice the 5 big holes at the top of the head:
The 1.8 engine top, notice the 5 holes (bottom):
The 2.0 engine top, notice the lack of 5 holes (top):
The 1.8 head gasket on the 2.0 motor:
Snag solution #1:
Tap and plug the 3 oil drain plug holes in the head.
The plugged holes in the head:
Snag #2:
The transmission in the A4 bolts to the bottom of the oil pan. Because of this, there are 4 big bolts towards the the trans end for added support. The 2.0 does not have these holes.
This is not an issue if you have a FWD VW
1.8 bottom, notice the 4 holes, 2 in the back, 2 towards the middle:
2.0 bottom, notice the lack of 4 holes:
The 1.8 pan gasket on the 2.0:
Snag solution #2:
Drill and tap the block for the two holes closest to the trans, and not worry about the other two.
The two holes drilled:
Possible snag to snag solution #2:
A brace runs from the two middle bolts to the front motor mount plate. I can still bolt them there, but they would be supported by the oil pan, not the block.
I do have a DTS that will be going in. This may relieve some stress on the braces and oil pan. Or it may increase it.......
Snag #3:
The 1.8T has a coolant inlet going into the side of the block for the turbo coolant return line.
The 2.0 does not have this.
Snag solution #3:
Run the turbo coolant output to some other place.
OR
Eliminate the coolant going to the turbo. This will not hurt the turbo in any way, as long as proper shutdown techniques are used (aka turbo timer) to allow the turbo to cooldown.
I brazed a hose inlet into a freeze plug, and put that into the block.
Measurements:
The 1.8 has a 81.0mm bore and 86.4mm stroke to get 1.781 liters
The 2.0 has a 82.5mm bore and 92.8mm stroke to get 1.984 liters
The 1.8 has a piston dish of 6.0cc
The 2.0 has a piston dish of 14.6cc
The head has combustion chamber of 42.2cc, and the gasket has an estimated compressed volume of 6.5cc.
This is an AEB head with oval intake ports. I have heard the newer heads have different intake ports, and a combustion chamber of 46cc, this is uncomfirmed though.
The 1.8 CR is 9.15:1
The 2.0 CR is 8.8:1 (with 20V head)
The CR is about ideal, but the ABA pistons can not be used, as a valve relief is needed to clear the 5th valve (middle intake)
This is isn't that big of a deal, since after inspecting the 2.0 block, there is a ridge in the bore, so I'll be boring it out to 83mm, which means I'll probably be getting some forged JE pistons. I plan on keeping the stock rods, they look just as good as the 1.8T rods. I'll just have them reconditioned
me parecio muy interesante y bueno se los dejo
no necesitan saber taaanto ingles porque las fotos dicen todo.
Conversion block 2.0L 8V ABA a 2.0L 20V
John's ABA 20V conversion
March 02, 2002
2.0 Conversion Phase 1: teardown and compare
First, a little background:
I bought an "ABA" 2.0 short block out of a 94 VW Golf for $320 shipped. Going price seems to be between $300-$600. This is a popular motor swap for the VW guys, so it may be hard to find a motor as cheap as I did.
Here are the main reasons I chose this motor:
1. It's a tall deck block, 16.5mm longer than a regular 1.8 or 2.0 This allows longer rods, 159mm vs. 144mm
2. Impulse wheel - the crank trigger wheel required in order to use the stock ECU (most aftermarket Engine Management Systems require a crank trigger anyways)
3. Forged crank and oil squirters - All ABA blocks built from 93 to 95 have forged cranks and oil squirters. 96 and up have cast cranks and no oil squirters - or so I've been told. I think this means 94-96 Golfs and Jettas are the ones to get the motors from. There are other 2.0 forged cranks available, but they dont have an impulse wheel. I don't know if it's possible to machine a crank to fit an impulse wheel.
If you're not running a stock Motronic system, or are planning on an aftermarket system with a crank trigger wheel on the crank pulley, then this isn't a big deal.
4. It supposedly hadn't been done :)
I did run into a couple snags, which I'll get to later, first here are the pics of the VW ABA motor being disassembled:
As received:
Side shot:
Identifying label:
Guts removed:
Close-up of oil squirters:
Engine side:
Engine front:
92.8mm crank, notice the crank trigger wheel:
Rod and piston:
Some test fitting/comparison pics:
2.0 Windage tray:
The 1.8T windage tray:
CC'ing the 2.0 piston dish:
Testing to make sure the APR flywheel fits:
Comparing the windage trays and oil pumps (1.8T on the right):
I tore apart the 1.8T block and did some comparisons.
My block is a 1997 Audi A4 block, There are rumors that the 97 blocks are stronger than the newer ones, but who knows if that's true.
This was a surprise, the 1.8T crank is CAST, not forged like I originally thought.
The top crank is 92.8mm (2.0), the bottom is 86.4 (1.8) If you look closely, you can see the thin casting line on the 1.8, compared to the thick forge line for the 2.0
Side view of the cranks
The auxilliary shafts, 1.8T on the left, 2.0 on the right, drives the oil pump for both motors, and the distributor for the 2.0 I will be using the 1.8 shaft (no distributor).
If you will be running a distributor, you may have to have teh 2.0 aux shaft modified to fit the 1.8T pulley.
Notice the pulley and shaft gear size differences.
Different views of the 2.0 (left) vs 1.8 (right) pistons and rods.
Comparison of the fronts, 2.0 right, 1.8 left. Notice the height difference that allows the long rod to be used.
Rear view, 2.0 left, 1.8 right:
Side view #1, 2.0 right, 1.8 left:
Side view #2, 2.0 left, 1.8 right. It's hard to see, but the turbo coolant return is there on the 1.8 You can also note that the 1.8 doesn't have any freeze plugs. Wierd.
For the most part, all of the accesory mounting holes are there.
I noted two exceptions:
1. The mount for the turbo brace is gone, not a big deal, since there looks to be an extra boss available (down lower) that could be used.
2. The mounts for the pass side engine mount bracket is different. Luckily, the bracket has holes for both configurations.
Here's another snag, the distributor hole is bigger on the 2.0 This means the plug from the 1.8 will not fit. You will need an adapter from Techtonics Tuning.
All the tranny bolt holes appear to line up as well.
So far, so good, right? Well, there are a couple snags:
Snag #1:
The 20V head has 5 oil drain-back holes on the exhaust side of the head. The 2.0 block only has 2.
20V head, notice the 5 big holes at the top of the head:
The 1.8 engine top, notice the 5 holes (bottom):
The 2.0 engine top, notice the lack of 5 holes (top):
The 1.8 head gasket on the 2.0 motor:
Snag solution #1:
Tap and plug the 3 oil drain plug holes in the head.
The plugged holes in the head:
Snag #2:
The transmission in the A4 bolts to the bottom of the oil pan. Because of this, there are 4 big bolts towards the the trans end for added support. The 2.0 does not have these holes.
This is not an issue if you have a FWD VW
1.8 bottom, notice the 4 holes, 2 in the back, 2 towards the middle:
2.0 bottom, notice the lack of 4 holes:
The 1.8 pan gasket on the 2.0:
Snag solution #2:
Drill and tap the block for the two holes closest to the trans, and not worry about the other two.
The two holes drilled:
Possible snag to snag solution #2:
A brace runs from the two middle bolts to the front motor mount plate. I can still bolt them there, but they would be supported by the oil pan, not the block.
I do have a DTS that will be going in. This may relieve some stress on the braces and oil pan. Or it may increase it.......
Snag #3:
The 1.8T has a coolant inlet going into the side of the block for the turbo coolant return line.
The 2.0 does not have this.
Snag solution #3:
Run the turbo coolant output to some other place.
OR
Eliminate the coolant going to the turbo. This will not hurt the turbo in any way, as long as proper shutdown techniques are used (aka turbo timer) to allow the turbo to cooldown.
I brazed a hose inlet into a freeze plug, and put that into the block.
Measurements:
The 1.8 has a 81.0mm bore and 86.4mm stroke to get 1.781 liters
The 2.0 has a 82.5mm bore and 92.8mm stroke to get 1.984 liters
The 1.8 has a piston dish of 6.0cc
The 2.0 has a piston dish of 14.6cc
The head has combustion chamber of 42.2cc, and the gasket has an estimated compressed volume of 6.5cc.
This is an AEB head with oval intake ports. I have heard the newer heads have different intake ports, and a combustion chamber of 46cc, this is uncomfirmed though.
The 1.8 CR is 9.15:1
The 2.0 CR is 8.8:1 (with 20V head)
The CR is about ideal, but the ABA pistons can not be used, as a valve relief is needed to clear the 5th valve (middle intake)
This is isn't that big of a deal, since after inspecting the 2.0 block, there is a ridge in the bore, so I'll be boring it out to 83mm, which means I'll probably be getting some forged JE pistons. I plan on keeping the stock rods, they look just as good as the 1.8T rods. I'll just have them reconditioned