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Re: armado de motores
Originally posted by Tornado View PostA las roscas de la tapa hay que pasarles el macho, enroscar todos los bulones a mano y recien ahi se puede estar seguro de que no va a hacer falso torque.
Claro esta que el macho no es barato tampoco, pero con uno pedorro de carbono va bien. Es solo para limpiar.
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Re: armado de motores
Las 2 veces que abri no les pase nada, a los bulones del carter si porque se aflojaban con el tiempo.
Pero una vez me habian dicho cuando habia abierto el motor de la fuego 2.0 que tenia block de aluminio. Me dijeron que habia que limpiar muy bien las roscas, y que no quede nada de aceite en las mismas, porque en el apriete si hay restos de aceite el mismo no comprime, y podia terminar fisurando el block. Nose si es verdad o no, pero cuando me lo dijeron le limpie lo mas que pude por las dudas.
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Re: armado de motores
Gente, la grasa se pone en el cuello del bulon, donde apoya en la tapa. Para bajar la friccion.
En la rosca de hecho tiene que estar perfectamente limpio ambas partes
Enviado desde mi GT-I8260L mediante Tapatalk
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Re: armado de motores
Originally posted by DODGE N´ROSES View Postsi no tenes macho,para sacar la mugre sirve hacerle un tajito a un bulón e ir pasándolo,cuando lo sacas,limpias en ese corte que le hiciste y así sucesivamente
despues es viene y postea las mismas pelotudeces acá, y como dijo palito scr sin ayudar jamás a nadie... En fin pueblerinos que jamás saldrán de ahí.
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Re: armado de motores
Usualmente cuando compras arp vienen con esto
Me gusta la explicación de pensar los bulones como resortes de extremada tensión, es decir que cuando mas podes evitar el rozamiento en los hilos de la rosca mas podes estirar el bulon sin que la fuerza se la coma el rozamiento. Acá esta un poco mejor explicado
Static friction, or fs, is a force that prevents objects in contact with each other from moving relative to one another, while kinetic friction, or fk, is the force between two objects that are in contact and moving relative to one another, also known as sliding or rubbing. The maximum static friction force between two surfaces is always greater than the kinetic friction force between those surfaces. This can be seen by attaching a fish scale to the side of a box sitting on a smooth floor and pulling until it is on the verge of moving. Note the force indicated by the fish scale, as this is your maximum static friction force. Next, pull just hard enough to make the box move at a slow, constant speed. As the box moves slowly across the floor, note that the fish scale indicates a lower force than before, the kinetic friction force.Additionally, note that pulling harder than this force makes the box accelerate, while pulling softer makes the box decelerate. This is because kinetic friction is roughly constant, and does not increase to match the pulling force as static friction does.
Similarly, when an increasing amount of torque is applied to a head stud or other fastener, it at first does not move, due to the static friction which counteracts the turning force applied by the torque wrench. When the force applied by the torque wrench just exceeds the maximum static friction force, kinetic friction takes over as the fastener begins to turn. This immediate kinetic friction force is always less than the static friction force between those surfaces, although this force increases as the fastener turns due to the threads increasing the tension on the fastener. This also means that the maximum static friction increases with each movement of the torque wrench, requiring a greater force to resume movement of the fastener than was required to move it to each resting position.
To ensure truly accurate torque, and eliminate the static friction effect, each step in the torque process should allow continuous movement of the fastener, so that the torque wrench indicates the desired torque without static friction, and the tension on the head studs is consistent across the cylinder head and matches what the engineers at ARP intended. While we at Fleet Service Northwest have found that approximately 30 ft-lbs is appropriate when installing these studs on the 6.0 Powerstroke, this can vary based on torque wrench length and clearance issues which can vary in the variety of 6L Powerstroke platforms, as well as the strength of the technician. ARP head studs must receive a liberal coating of high-quality grease on the threads and all contact surfaces between the nuts and washers, which reduces but does not eliminate both static and kinetic friction.
Rob Gaskell, Jr.
Diagnostics
Fleet Service Northwest, Inc.Last edited by Huki05; 14-06-2015, 21:30.
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